The Italy of the Italians Part 2: Mantua, a Beautiful & Compact Renaissance City

We began our tour in Mantua, the smallest of the three cities on our main itinerary. With a  current population of around 50,000, it rose to prominence during the Renaissance primarily under the Gonzaga family whose authoritarian rule lasted over 300 years. Subsequently, Mantua was ruled at various times by the Austrians and the French until Italian unification in the mid 19th century. Being compact, it provides a wonderful primer on the cities of the region, as well as their more famous brethren in Lombardy and Umbria. Its main piazza, as well as smaller ones adjacent to it, are joined by a network of pedestrian ways, and defined by churches, lesser palazzos, and shopping arcades. The flat terrain makes it an excellent city for cycling.

[caption id="attachment_1657" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Men Sharing Stories, Piazza del Erbe"][/caption]

The main piazza (Piazza Sordello) has the traits that will be a recurring typology thorough out the cities visited: a central piazza, defined the palazzo built by the ruling family, a duomo or church, and some administrative buildings. The uses have changed (with the exception of the duomo), but their role remains the same: that of providing a strong spatial definition with buildings having either a porous ground floor, or sufficient open space adjacent to them to allow for furniture, seating walls, or steps which provide comfortably scaled space about which to gather. Typical too, is that the palazzo now houses a museum or other civic building of note, not the posh residence of the ruling elite. Below, the Palazzo Ducale is to the right, and the duomo to the left. The balconies of an adjacent palazzo (not shown) was where the rulers would cage criminals (or rivals), to die of exposure for all to see. Despite this morbid lineage, its new role the civic museum is as well suited to its location as when it was the home of the ruling elite: being at the center of things and the most prominent building in the central city. The building's uses represent the evolution of the 1000 year old social order, from authoritarian rule to democratic rule; or, a building whose use was by the minority to one whose use is enjoyed by the majority. And as a typology, as a living form of urbanism, this progression was fostered by clarity of plan and hierarchy, enabling such a drastic change in governance (and therefore use) to happen.

[caption id="attachment_1659" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Piazza Sordello & The Palazzo Ducale"][/caption]

Opposite the Palazzo Ducale is the palazzo of the ruling family whose tenure ended when the Gonzaga came to power. Beyond one can see the dome of the famous Basilica San' Andrea. It is interesting to note that when the Gonzagas deposed the previous ruling family, they choose to build their new palazzo opposite the extant, as the former regime had consecrated the Piazza Sordello as the city's most important space a spatial and therefore political ordering that the city's new rulers were smart to capitalize on. Today, the city's residents continue its importance, by making it the most concentrated social space in the city, as witnessed by the many filled cafe tables.

[caption id="attachment_1615" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Piazza Sordello & Palazzo Bonacolsi"][/caption][caption id="attachment_1668" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Piazza Sordello and the Palazzi Bonacolsi & Vescovile"][/caption]

Throughout our stay in Mantua, Italian was the only language to be heard. Though a splendid city indeed, a gauge of Mantua's relative wealth at its apex could be deduced by the paving material of the Piazza Sordello, which is uncut rock, laid in a random pattern (as opposed to cut blocks, or the fancier stone paving tiles of larger cities). Though it may prove a challenge to one wearing high heals, the simple paving does the job well, even if it was a relatively low-budget approach to such an important space. Below, people enjoying on of the many pedestrian ways of Mantua as a simple promenade; not spending, not shopping, not eating, just enjoying. Originally scaled around the pedestrian (for horses and carts were not only smaller than today's automobiles, but were rarer and only available to the wealthy), it is nice to see  many of the streets of Italian cities return to their pre-automotive past and emphasize pedestrian uses.

[caption id="attachment_1658" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Mantua Streetscape"][/caption][caption id="attachment_1669" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Piazza del Erbe"][/caption]

Pictured above and below is a the smaller Piazza del Erbe, where several shopping streets converge. No large palazzos here, just colonnaded shops and housing of what were probably merchants and artisans. Today, its less formal nature is perfect for families to gather, and kick around a soccer ball. Its more casual demeanor is best suited to standing interactions among residents, not the more formal dining that occurs in Piazza Sordello. It was nice to see two public spaces immediately adjacent to each other, of about the same time, but with very different personalities. Personalities that could be traced back to the cities origins and their original uses.

[caption id="attachment_1621" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Piazza del Erbe Adjacent to Piazza Sordello"][/caption]

As day turns into evening, the buildings themselves become more distinctive, and the space defined more mysterious. The contrast between the well-lit ground floors and the darkened upper floors lends this piazza a welcoming glow, yet at the same time a haunting ambiance. And though lacking throngs of visitors, there are just enough residents milling about to make one feel comfortable and safe. It is interesting to ponder just how many people need to inhabit a space to make it work. The prominence of the tower lends importance to the space.

Mantua's significance in Italy's architectural history is assured by its two most significant buildings, each being a masterpiece of their respective authors: the Basilica of San' Andrea and the Palazzo del Te. The basilica is one of the few realized built works by one of Italy's most famous classical theorists, Leon Battista Alberti, whose On the Art of Building in Ten Books is one of the seminal treatises on architecture, and was penned in the mid 15th century. Alberti's basilica has a stunning interior that has recently been restored (its exterior was shrouded in scaffolding, and is hence not pictured), to great success. The barrel vaulting of the space pictured below, is what distinguishes it as a basilica, a typology founded upon Roman precedent, though its original use was as a market not a house of worship.

[caption id="attachment_1625" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="The Basilica of San' Andrea"][/caption]

I remember fondly Romano's masterwork, the Palazzo del Te from my architectural history courses. Perhaps Italy's most famous secular building, it was the pleasure palace and stables of the Gonzaga family, and is located just on (what was then) the outskirts of the city, and is adorned with festive and at times ridiculous frescoes depicting Greek gods, and well, partying. The interiors are in fantastic condition (no photographs allowed), and the exterior (as shown below), demonstrates an almost perfect knowledge of scale, balance, and proportion. With such an outstanding urban fabric, and two world-class buildings, it is easy to understand how Mantua became a UNESCO world heritage site in 2008.

[caption id="attachment_1672" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Palazzo del Te"][/caption]

As I re-trace the steps of my recent sojourn in the north of Italy, several themes will become apparent: How have spaces' uses evolved over time, while still maintaining their function; what are the commonalities of those uses/functions, and what lessons going forward can they serve us today, in our time, on Capitol Hill, that will help us further the quality of our neighborhood. Up next: Ferrara!

green = practical

[caption id="attachment_1649" align="aligncenter" width="700" caption="Fern Hill Terrace Apartments"][/caption] Mike and I met with a non-profit housing developer recently who indicated that one of their funders said that we should really stop talking about green building and sustainability. Their opinion was that what we are really talking about is taking a practical approach to design - focusing on reducing energy consumption, lower operations and maintenance costs.

Wow! What a refreshing change to have enlightened funders (who have historically been concerned about bottom line returns and building more with less) who truly get the triple bottom line with respect to affordable housing. By expecting affordable housing projects to be environmentally sustainable, WA state funders are acknowledging the social equity of providing healthy homes for low income families and seniors, but also the economic benefit to housing operators, and reduced energy consumption for low income tenants.

[caption id="attachment_1654" align="alignleft" width="700" caption="Typical Unit Kitchen"][/caption]

Fern Hill Terrace is a project that recently completed construction for the Multi-Service Center and Shelter Resources, Inc. It is a rehabilitation of an existing low income housing property. There are 24 family units in this project located in Tacoma, WA. Due to funding from the state, the project was required to satisfy the Evergreen Sustainable Development Standards - not only for the renovation but also for the 600sf of new construction. The great thing about the project was not only that we were able re-use the existing buildings (the best move we could have made from a sustainability standpoint), but that the residents of this apartment community were not displaced during construction. The construction occurred in a phases such that 4-6 units were renovated at a time. Sure, the residents had to move out of their units as they were being renovated, but they simply moved into another unit within the complex...which allowed them to maintain the same bus routes, driving routes, and daily schedule. For some seniors and families, this was a big deal - they shared that with me during the open house. And they were able to move back into units that were like new - new cabinets, flooring, doors, windows. The energy efficiency is dramatically improved, the indoor air quality significantly improved, and radiant heating elevated above the window to eliminate the fire hazard of the previous electric baseboards. Not to mention the improved laundry facilities, community room, low impact landscaping, and new kids playground.

Schemata Workshop is proud to serve low and moderate income families and seniors in Washington state by designing safe and decent homes - you can call them green, we call them practical.

The Italy of the Italians Part 1

Italian culture is arguably the single most important contributor to western civilization. Whether in the arts, sciences, commerce, or even governance (current intrigues, of course, excluded) both the legacies of individual such as Michelangelo, Galileo, Lorenzo De Medici, and Justinian, or the collective influences of the Renaissance and Roman Empire of which they were are part, the Italians' contribution to our way of life is immeasurable and profound. A living testament to this legacy is found in the many fine cites throughout Italy, a few of which form the basis of this series of posts. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="300"]

Mantua Skyline[/caption]

Having seen many the cities one typically thinks of when thinking of Italy, my recently completed trip focused on what one may call second (and third) tier cites, in this case mostly in Emilia Romagna. I use the term second and third tier advisedly, for the cities visited are amongst the finest urban environments anywhere, and their lesser notoriety in not a slight to their beauty or charm, merely the lack of recognition of their qualities amongst non-Italophiles.

Visiting Mantua, Ferarra, and Bologna (along with brief stopovers in Modena, Parma, Turin, and Varese) was an opportunity to see a side of Italy unavailable to those whose focus is only on the country's most popular destinations. Unavailable, because those cities are filled not only by their residents, but also throngs of visitors, whose impact on the cityscape is significant. Without the crowds and tour buses, one can arrive at a better sense of how these spaces function on a day-to-day basis -- to see how they function as working cities – and not merely places of leisure. The public spaces visited were filled with the population of the city served, allowing a more tangible measure of their utility and their successes.

[caption id="attachment_1606" align="alignnone" width="300"] Ferrara Streetscape[/caption]

Italy, of course, was not a nation until 1861, so I use the term Italians not to describe a nation in the contemporary sense, but really the group of people who shared a common language and a common history. Unlike say France, Great Britain, or Spain, there was no country of Italy ruled by a powerful gentry (much of Italy was in fact ruled by foreign powers). What it lacked in national unity it made up for in strong regional identity forged by leading cities, with each being the head of government, commerce, and culture for the region. Each primary city was therefore, a distillation of all of the qualities we identify with modern nation states. We too have cities such as these today: London, Tokyo, Paris, and so on, each the cultural, financial, and governing capital of their nation. What is remarkable about the Italian cities described here, is they achieved comparable levels of greatness in their own time, with populations of maybe 30 to 60 thousands and not millions. This compact size relative to greatness allows an intimate relationship to be forged,, even during a brief sojourn.

[caption id="attachment_1597" align="alignnone" width="700"] Bologna the City of Colonnades[/caption]

Mantua, Ferarra, and Bologna’s origins can be traced back prior to the Roman Empire, though they did not flourish until the late Middle Ages or the Renaissance. In addition to this shared imperial heritage they rose to prominence while ruled by a leading family, whose power came from commerce, banking, or land holding. They were also the seats of bishops. Perhaps it was the concentration of governance (both secular and ecclesiastical) and commerce, and its resulting artistic patronage, which fostered these city-states to greatness. A physical manifestation is to be found within the constructs of the city itself. And even though some grounding in history would help one arrive at a conclusion with greater haste, the observant traveler is bound to come to similar conclusions. The palazzo and duomo fronting the piazza (the traditional market place) is an urban typology typical to almost all cities visited; or, in other-words, both the secular and sectarian seats of power defining the place of public assembly and commerce. Always in the center of the historic city, and always easy to identify by the splendor, size, and regalia of their construction, this logical assembly of edifices imparts to one a knowledge of arrival and of place. With the exception of the duomo, the uses of the buildings may have evolved to our present day, but their function has remained the same: clearly designating a hierarchy of relationships and methods of interaction among the citizenry of the city. And though predictable, there is certainly an abundance of variation within the typology to lend interest to each town visited.

Universal Design is for Children as well as Seniors

Universal Design is becoming a buzz words amongst aging boomers and those working in the senior housing development arena. Some proponents say that it goes beyond ADA and accessibility standards. But Universal Design isn't about just accommodating the disabled homebuyer or satisfying accessibility codes. Its really about good design - design that allows people of all ages and abilities to experience a space or room in a similar fashion.

This means that a senior with arthritis, or a teen in a wheelchair, or a young mother with a stroller, or a middle aged man on crutches, or a child can all equally control lighting levels in a room, access appliances and plumbing fixtures, enter a home, or open an interior door. The American Disabilities Act (ADA) was instrumental in mandating that provisions be made for those with physical disabilities in public places. However, the ADA is a code minimum. There are many wheelchair users that will attest to the inadequacy of those code minimums in terms of daily usability.

AARP recently published an article about Universal Design in their recent Bulletin. AARP article. The article featured a Seattle-area contractor, interior designer and architect (Schemata Workshop).

Many friends, family, and collaborators called to say that they had seen the article. What I hope is that others who saw the article will also become acquainted with the term Universal Design and grow to expect that designers, architects, and contractors as well as the housing developers who hire them will provide the features that will create homes (and commercial spaces) that are well-designed for everybody to enjoy.

When Cars Were Smaller, But Garages Bigger

I have yet to write about single family homes, for they are not a focus of our practice and typically are not as urban as are apartments and mixed used buildings. Nor have I written of garages or ever thought I would (except in disparaging ways), especially ones that so unabashedly front a street and dominate a building's facade.  But here I go. And to be farther off message, the garages in this post are for really large homes, on really large lots, about as far removed from dense, affordable, and urban (three values we hold) as one could imagine. [caption id="attachment_1468" align="alignnone" width="360" caption="Harvard Belmont Landmark District"][/caption]

Yet despite all of these ideological hurdles, I find the below ensemble (that is primarily in the Harvard-Belmont Historic District) quite urban, and full of useful lessons. So bear with me, and let's have some naughty fun and indulge ourselves in things we know we know we really shouldn't, but can't help not to, and take a stroll through a fancy section of Northwest Capitol Hill and admire some cool mixed function garages.

[caption id="attachment_1453" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 1, West Elevation"][/caption]

The building pictured above is a combination dwelling, garage, and retaining wall, and other functions characteristic of most of the buildings pictured below. I presume it is the sole remains of a larger, no longer extant estate of the same Tudor style. The current home adjacent to this building (and I believe that of its current owners) is of a distinctly post-modern flavor, and was built in 1987, whereas the garage was built at least 70 or 80 years ago. Fronting the property line this edifice lends this single-family residential street a robust, urban character. And though the facade is dominated by garage doors (something I never thought I would even remotely praise), they are well cared for and of a very high quality (carriage doors, I believe they are called), and do nothing to diminish the building's presentation or neighborliness.

[caption id="attachment_1441" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 1, Southwest View"][/caption]

The photo above provides a better view of the work that this structure performs. Note the stairs in the foreground, as well as the rip-rap wall, both in evidence of the volume of earth contained beyond. The original patrons of this parcel had the means to elevate what is typically banal fare - soil retainage and parking - to the realm of architecture and landscape.

[caption id="attachment_1445" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 2"][/caption]

An equally robust wall is the Tudor's next-door neighbor, yet is of a very different character. The garage functionality remains, but the building-as-retaining wall task is here supplemented by this lovely, planted rip-rap wall. Meticulously cared for plants make this an attractive wall indeed.

[caption id="attachment_1444" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 3 West Elevations"][/caption]

A couple of doors down is a third, yet equally apropos approach. While it is true that one sees the derrieres of the autos sheltered within, the design of this wall-carport combo so well echoes that of the tasty little modernist duplexes above that I could not help but include it, hindquarters notwithstanding.

[caption id="attachment_1443" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 3 Carport Detail"][/caption]

Ah, a cantilever roof, that beloved modernist trope, and here dignifying a carport -- now that is attention to detail! Note how the concrete walls (with gorgeous, board formed textures), decisively cut back as they approach the roof, thus to create the cantilever. The bold horizontal lines echoes those of the pair of duplexes and the warmly stained wood ceiling add a touch of class to this most utilitarian of spaces. This is as well designed a carport as you are likely to see on the Hill, or in Seattle, and a testament that (almost) anything can be well designed, regardless of heritage.

[caption id="attachment_1447" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 4 West Elevation"][/caption]

If I were in possession of them, my champagne tastes would be divulged if I were to write that this is my favorite garage of the bunch. Sure, it is the fanciest, but it is also the multitude of functions and happenings that pique my interests. Note the massive wall to the left, and how it translates into the garage structure with its strong buttresses. Again, we have extra fancy carriage doors, and some nice masonry walls. On the right, is an intimate and mysterious entry, leading to a terrace. Beyond is the manor house that lends this building its raison d'être. Again, a very urban solution (albeit ironically) to the automobile storage.

[caption id="attachment_1446" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 4 Entry Gate"][/caption]

My favorite moment of all of these garages is the dark and windy stair that leads to the terrace and (presumed) guest quarters. Entered through an iron gate, what could be more mysterious or provocative?

[caption id="attachment_1452" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 5 West Elevation"][/caption]

Most of us could no more afford these garages than we could the even more opulent homes they serve. Through-block parcels, of at least 10,000 sf, are beyond the reach of most of us. It is nice, though, that we get at least a hint of the dolce vita by passing so closely to these splendid service buildings. The home can be seen to the right (way, way, beyond).

[caption id="attachment_1451" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 5 Stair"][/caption]

The competition to have the most splendid retaining wall/garage/garden/guest house combination must have been keen when these estates were first built, for they are all of the same style. Here, another elegant stair leads up to the garden that the garage helps support.

[caption id="attachment_1450" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 6"][/caption]

Although perhaps absent of some of the refinement of the previous examples this wall/building/garage/guest quarters (anything I missed?) most likely has many more things going on than its relatively demure neighbors. I suspect that tall white walls on either side of the central pavilion define a very French or Italian inspired formal garden. Although not right on the street as the others, the espalier, box hedges, and finely trimmed bit of turf lend the edifice a formality and dignity exhibited in the best urban building.

[caption id="attachment_1442" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 7"][/caption]

More modest in scale, and within the realm of what is achievable by many, this building nicely exhibits the transition from wall, to garage, to simple bungalow. Note how the bungalow is not only cantilevered, but floats above the adjacent wall. Nice!

[caption id="attachment_1448" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 8"][/caption]

A familiar view to most who live on Capitol Hill, this very utilitarian structure may not have the opulence of its neighbors to the west, but its power to shape the landscape is no less. Here, the unadorned concrete (which is the structure - minus brick veneer - of the other examples) performs the same role of vehicle storage and landscape demarcation. To the right, is a finely carved out stair, similar to the others, and leading to the large home which all of this supports.

[caption id="attachment_1449" align="alignnone" width="700" caption="Example 9"][/caption]

There is probably an interesting story behind this final example. Or maybe not. But, just to the right, you can make out part the rather substantial home that I imagine, at one time, was related to the traditional base of this otherwise modernist house. Clearly, the two are not contemporaneous. Was the estate parceled out? I don't know, but I like to think there is a good story here. The garages adaptability and worthy of preservation shows both the utility and propriety of the structure, regardless of  heritage.